Show Notes, Damir Doma Women’s Autumn Winter 2013-14
- 27/02/2013
DAMIR DOMA
WOMEN’S AUTUMN WINTER 2013-14
Exercising a subtle rebellion, the Damir Doma woman reaches forward, inflecting her stride with a quiet futurism. Her vagrant spirit parades through the salons of a 19th century hôtel particulier – the hallowed halls of a former life stagnant with histories of ceremony, people and architecture. The sense of patrimoine is unsettled, and the bourgeoisie unhinged. Neo-corporate silhouettes are superimposed with hybrid fabrications. Spare utility and a cool independence reigns.
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Firmly entrenched in the milieu of Paris, Damir Doma injects heritage textiles with a spontaneous lightness, shrugging off any predilections of ‘retro’. Houndstooth bouclé, striped Melton wool and a pinstripe jacquard seem irreverent when trimmed in leather and nylon, while luminous polyamides pop in raspberry and mica grey against the passage of mineral tones. Further shine arrives as lacquered wool ‘tweed’ and a biker gilet in plush castor fur.
The structure of a ruched collar and raglan sleeve dictates the rounded silhouette of zippered shifts, a bomber and cropped tunic. Collarless coats are belted or shorn off at the hip as a wide bolero. A tailor’s savoir-faire informs the inverted pleat down a swing coat’s spine and the darted bust of long blazers sans lapel. Crisp short and skirt suits retain a strict, cosmopolitan rigor, while laser-punched wool lends flippant volume to a skater skirt. The motif of perforation continues in viscose-infused knitwear in a tiled motif, and two-tone driving gloves.
The structures of a doctor’s bag and frame purse continue the sophisticated, utilitarian ambience – as does anodized jewellery tinted in mint and rose. Stacked Chelsea boots are paneled in burnished copper, python and emerald, and the final cycle of the Mykita Damir Doma DD01 rounded opticals are shown in black and amber acetate.
Architectural notes: 51 Avenue d’Iena is a hôtel particulier constructed in 1897 by the Parisian architect Paul Ernest Sanson of the Beaux Arts school, for the German art collector Rodolphe Kann.
